CALICO: the PROJECT Hand-woven fabric
In search of the original Khadi landscape
Every time I traveled to India, I looked for Khadi (hand-spun, hand-woven fabric) wherever I went, but I couldn't find the ideal one I had in mind. Then, when I came to live in Delhi, I found that many of the good fabrics I could occasionally find in the city were woven in West Bengal. Since then, I have been visiting villages in West Bengal regularly.
It was also a journey to listen to the sounds of machinery in the village. As we left the highway and the station and entered the village, the soothing patter of machinery sounded like the heartbeat of this world that has been passed down since ancient times.
However, in recent years, the sound of the machines has become a distant memory. In the hut of a weaver who once said, "I only want to weave saris that I like," a machine that produces polyester saris with jamdani patterns has been installed. It is clear that the shrill sound is affecting the daily life of the village, but it does not reach the ears of the people who are busy with their immediate needs.
Still, whenever I meet people all over India who are passionate about continuing to make Khadi and handwoven fabric, and whenever I see looms quietly bathed in sunlight in the darkness and their faint sounds, I cannot help but hope for a world in which such things are not just an illusion, but a reality that connects and spreads.
East Indian handwoven fabrics
In the past, most of eastern India was a land called Bengal. Today, it mainly refers to the state of West Bengal, but since ancient times, the region has been known as a producer of fine cotton fabrics that are suited to the humid climate, or that can only be woven in a humid climate. Called "fabric woven from the wind," it is said to have fascinated the people of Rome since around the time of Christ. Even today, there are many types of fabrics, including hand-spun and hand-woven cotton fabrics commonly known as Khadi, traditional Jamdani fabrics originating from Dhaka that use the technique of weft pattern weaving, traditional jacquard fabrics such as Balchari saris, and silk fabrics woven near Assam and Bihar, which are the source of raw materials.
At CALICO, we restore the classic Jamdani patterns, focusing on the classic hand-spun and hand-woven cotton fabrics we call Muslin Khadi, Usuri Khadi, and Shikkuri Khadi. In recent years, we have been inspired by Bengali women wearing saris, and have been making fabrics inspired by the jacquard saris weaving that they taught us.
Denim Khadi weaver
Sickly Khadi
Photo by Haruhi Okuyama
Tussar silk fabric woven with quotes from Tagore using the Jamdani technique
Photo by Haruhi Okuyama, Modeling by Chisa Matsumoto
West Indian handwoven fabrics
In Kutch, Gujarat, a region that has endured many disasters, various crafts have been encouraged since the 1970s, and weaving, which could be considered a new tradition, has been passed down.
Of particular note among these is the indigenous cotton known as Kala Cotton, which is said to have been passed down in the area since ancient times. Led by the NGO Khamir, a project has been launched to create weaving jobs that effectively appeal to the local characteristics by using Kala Cotton. For details, please see Project_KALA COTTON
In the same way, there is a growing momentum to protect the lifestyles and culture of pastoralists and the virgin wool they handle. Although on a limited scale, hand-spun and hand-woven cloth is also being produced using virgin wool.
A young man weaving a Petichalka-khadi. 2023. Cooperation: Khamir
CALICO is actively introducing Kala Cotton Khadi using Ambir Varka, as well as Petit Charka in recent years. As for the original wool, they are mainly taught by Vankar Vishram Valji family, who are also making various fabrics from it.
Workshop by Vankar Shamji Valji, 2025
A coat made from original wool, made in collaboration with Vankar Shamj Valji.
Photo by Haruhi Okuyama, Modeling by Chisa Matsumoto
South Indian handwoven fabric
In South India, the culture of wearing a single piece of cloth such as a sari, dhoti, or lungi remains strong even today. The image of silk saris from Kanchipuram, which are famous throughout the country, is strong, but because it is close to cotton-producing areas, cotton cloth for daily use is woven in the villages. Compared to Bengal, the count is thicker and the weave density is lower (coarse), but there are many fabrics with impressive designs unique to South India, such as unique interlock border designs and ikat (ikat). In recent years, although many of the fabrics woven in the villages are called "khadi," most are woven on looms equipped with electric motors or entirely by machine, and many are made of synthetic fibers or a mixture of synthetic fibers, but the rich color schemes unique to South India are eye-catching.
In recent years, there has been a movement to restore and promote indigenous cotton in Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, and some of the handloom sector is responding to this. CALICO has asked Kaskom, a local activist in Tamil Nadu, to work with the indigenous Karunganj cotton. They are also working on a project to explore the origins of Tozan and Tozandome, handwoven fabrics that were brought to Japan, by visiting various production areas in South India.
Cotton from Karunganj cotton. Photo by Yayoi Arimoto.
Karungani cotton top. Photo by Haruhi Okuyama, Modeling by Chisa Matsumoto