The textile culture of Kutch has developed through the intermingling of various peoples, who have honed their materials and techniques .
To revive this kind of collaborative work in modern times, CALICO conceived the Labaree Project, which was launched in collaboration with local NGOs Qasab and Khamir, weaving company Vankar, and Ajurack dyeing company Khatri, to create a "modern tradition."
The indigenous Kala cotton variety, which has been passed down since the Indus Valley civilisation, is woven by Vankars (weavers), and the women of Devali Yarabari use leftover Ajurak cloth, which CALICO has commissioned Khatris (dyers) to make, to create .
These techniques were originally used for wedding attire and dowry bags . However, in recent years, women have tended to spend many years creating highly finished items, which has led to a trend of later marriages in the community as a whole. As a result, the elders (women) discussed the matter and decided to forbid themselves from applying appliques and embroidery to wedding attire . Nevertheless, embroidery is one way for the desert people, who are not attached to the land, to connect with their ancestors and kindred.
Kutch is a famous place among antique fabric collectors, and each and every piece being made now is filled with the energy of the people who made them . I hope that the people who buy them will take them and make them even better.
The handle of each bag has the name of the woman who did the applique and embroidery inscribed in Gujarati.
Photo by Haruhi Okuyama
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